HOW THE COUNTRY WORKS!!!

We arrived at Santiago at 2 o’clock in the morning thanks to the vagaries of Viazul. Our patient hosts in our Casa Particular sent a taxi to meet us and let us into our room… Breakfast time seemed to come very soon! This house has been in the family for over 100 years, despite the Revolution. Our hostess runs it with the help of her husband, and their daughter and son in law who are both biologists at the university. They only let one room but it makes a huge difference to their standard of living. They have a tame Cuban parrot!

Casas Particulares were first authorised about 15 years ago, but really opened up after Raul Castro took over from 2006. Along with other tourism services – principally private restaurants (Paladares = “Palates”!) and private taxis – they are authorised to service the tourism industry, paying a licence and taxes for the privilege. There are also private “buses” for Cubans…

Our hosts explained to us the food ticket system: every family has what they call a “chequera” (cheque-book) entitling them to a miniscule quantity of basic food and household supplies – rice, chicken, milk powder, soap – from the state shops at subsidised prices. Everything else has to be bought at realistic prices at semi-private shops (where the state is a partner in the business) or (illegally) directly from producers – often by barter. In their case for example they could get 200 grams of chicken per month for a two adults! It was not the last time we heard such complaints. Everything seems to be in short supply except for eggs: we had 2 for breakfast every day and frequently saw people carrying trays in the streets! It must be said that Cuba is not particularly cheap for tourists. There is an extraordinary double currency system. When it was introduced the idea was that tourists would buy everything at 25 times the price paid by Cubans – what cost them one Peso would cost the tourist one Convertible Unit of Currency worth 1 dollar or 25 pesos. Tourists are not allowed to hold Cuban pesos, nor Cubans to use CUC’s, which they must exchange if they receive them in their businesses. Inevitably the system could not be strictly maintained and will shortly be abandoned through unification of the currencies. That will probably drive up the cost of living further. It must be said that although a lot of people live on very little, we saw few signs of abject misery. In the only place with a profusion of beggars, Holguín, the beggars were clearly professional, being chivvied by a very seedy looking Mafioso type!

Taxis!