We have spent two days walking in the mountains of the Sierra Norte north-east of Oaxaca – very beautiful mountainous forest with a lot of pine (at least 2 species – including radiata?) and supposedly up to 30 species of oak.
I managed to identify a number of birds without much help from our guides(!). The area is in the hands of a group of villages who work on a cooperative basis for tourism, forest management, a sawmill and a few other things.
The journey to get there was an adventure in itself… The bus left from the 2nd class terminal (at the other end of the city) at 0700, so we bought our tickets the day before – we had some difficulty finding the terminal, hidden behind a market and street stalls. We set the alarm for 0600. Having packed and left our cases in the hostel, taking only light rucksacks, we caught a taxi to the terminal. The driver went round the north side of the city to avoid the centre… apart from having to reverse back up a one-way street because the exit was blocked by a parked truck, we arrived without incident and 20 minutes early as recommended. Shortly after we arrived, someone thumped on the bus door to wake the driver who rolled up and stowed his bedding roll. The bus bore the name of the company which might have been appropriate when the bus was new but now seemed a trifle optimistic – La Flecha de Zempoaltepetl (the Zempoaltepetl arrow). We had been told to take the bus for Yalalag, so the fact that this one said Cajonos the front did not inspire confidence.
At 0700 on the button the driver started the engine, but this proved to be merely in order to warm it up! At 0710 we were allowed to board and at 0719 we started to move. We got as far as the exit gate from the terminal, where all buses have to pay their tax for using the terminal. Our driver had no change (or no money?) and started reversing back to get the necessary, but one of our fellow passengers lent him the cash and we set off into the maelstrom of Oaxaca’s rush-hour, going round the south side of the city! At 0750 we passed within three blocks of our hostel, having completed our circumnavigation, and started to make progress at last.
From there on it was plain sailing. After another 20 minutes we turned north into the mountains and started to climb. Our start point was the village of Coajimoloyas – at 3,200 masl – where we were served an excellent breakfast with hot chocolate Mexican style.
Then we set off through the pines, mainly downhill, on the six-hour hike to Latuvi. Half-way we were handed over to a new guide from Latuvi, while our first guide returned to Coajimoloyas… We had a picnic lucnh here, with a view of our destination...
On arrival we were booked into a very nice cabaña and went to have a Temascal (a Mexican sauna). Thereafter it was spicy supper and early bed.
The second day was five hours walking – again with a change of guide half way. We walked down a long river valley and then up to our destination village of Amatlan.
There were fewer pines, and some bare trees that appeared to be a species of alder. We had a good lunch, but slightly rushed as they were holding the truck for us, and then the long journey home, including a 2-hour wait for a bus that never arrived…
I managed to identify a number of birds without much help from our guides(!). The area is in the hands of a group of villages who work on a cooperative basis for tourism, forest management, a sawmill and a few other things.
The journey to get there was an adventure in itself… The bus left from the 2nd class terminal (at the other end of the city) at 0700, so we bought our tickets the day before – we had some difficulty finding the terminal, hidden behind a market and street stalls. We set the alarm for 0600. Having packed and left our cases in the hostel, taking only light rucksacks, we caught a taxi to the terminal. The driver went round the north side of the city to avoid the centre… apart from having to reverse back up a one-way street because the exit was blocked by a parked truck, we arrived without incident and 20 minutes early as recommended. Shortly after we arrived, someone thumped on the bus door to wake the driver who rolled up and stowed his bedding roll. The bus bore the name of the company which might have been appropriate when the bus was new but now seemed a trifle optimistic – La Flecha de Zempoaltepetl (the Zempoaltepetl arrow). We had been told to take the bus for Yalalag, so the fact that this one said Cajonos the front did not inspire confidence.
At 0700 on the button the driver started the engine, but this proved to be merely in order to warm it up! At 0710 we were allowed to board and at 0719 we started to move. We got as far as the exit gate from the terminal, where all buses have to pay their tax for using the terminal. Our driver had no change (or no money?) and started reversing back to get the necessary, but one of our fellow passengers lent him the cash and we set off into the maelstrom of Oaxaca’s rush-hour, going round the south side of the city! At 0750 we passed within three blocks of our hostel, having completed our circumnavigation, and started to make progress at last.
From there on it was plain sailing. After another 20 minutes we turned north into the mountains and started to climb. Our start point was the village of Coajimoloyas – at 3,200 masl – where we were served an excellent breakfast with hot chocolate Mexican style.
Then we set off through the pines, mainly downhill, on the six-hour hike to Latuvi. Half-way we were handed over to a new guide from Latuvi, while our first guide returned to Coajimoloyas… We had a picnic lucnh here, with a view of our destination... 
On arrival we were booked into a very nice cabaña and went to have a Temascal (a Mexican sauna). Thereafter it was spicy supper and early bed.
The second day was five hours walking – again with a change of guide half way. We walked down a long river valley and then up to our destination village of Amatlan. 
There were fewer pines, and some bare trees that appeared to be a species of alder. We had a good lunch, but slightly rushed as they were holding the truck for us, and then the long journey home, including a 2-hour wait for a bus that never arrived…
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