MARANHAO 2

In the interlude between our stays in São Luis we went to a national park, Lençois Maranhenses, (‘Lençois’ means ‘bedsheets’), where we stayed in the small town of Barreirinhas on the well-named Preguiços (slothful) river! The park is a vast area of sand dunes (which incidentally form a wide belt along long stretches of Brazil’s north coast from Maranhao to Fortaleza and beyond). Here the area of dunes is over 50 km wide, representing no doubt a build-up over many millions of years, and the very white sand is said to look like sheets draped across the landscape. The current runs westwards along this coast so the sand must come from erosion further south east. This area has become particularly famous because lakes form in the sand during the wet season. Last year there was very little rain, so the water in many places has not been replenished, however we took a trip to a pair of lakes – an hour’s drive along a sand track (sand, not sandy!) in a 4WD vehicle. The dunes are in constant motion and are invading the lakes, burying trees in their path. The following day we took a boat trip to the river mouth, seeing (semi-tame) golden monkeys at a little settlement; and scarlet ibis – feeding on the familiar red crabs – on the river banks. Back in Sao Luis we took the ferry across the estuary to Alcantara, once the residence of rich merchants and cotton barons but now seriously deteriorated, despite being declared a national heritage. A few of the fine eighteenth century buildings are preserved, and two of the three churches – the Carmelite church (which had a convent attached, now in ruins) and the smaller slaves’ church at the other end of the village. The main square with the ruined Matriz church was invaded by a carnival show with huge banks of speakers, which contrasted oddly with the well-preserved whipping post for slaves – conveniently located outside the church. I hope the image shocks you as it did me. We stayed in a pousada (Bela Vista – recommended) run by Danilo and his mother. She is very creative and decorated most of the pousada with fabric stuck to the walls instead of wallpaper and a variety of recycled materials. The food was delicious! There were some great characters, including Luizinho, who owns a valuable piece of land near the village centre which a drunk Brazilian was trying to persuade him to sell. Magdalena made friends with the organizer of a Carnival party for OAPS to which we were invited! Desde São Luis fuimos a un parque nacional, Lençois Maranhenses, (‘Lençois’ son sábanas); alojamos en la pequeña ciudad de Barreirinhas, a orlas del Río Preguiços (perezoso)! El parque es un área inmensa de dunas, que se extienden más de 50 km hacia el interior y se parecen a sábanas blancas tendidas sobre el paisaje. La zona se ha hecho famosa por los lagos que se forman entre las dunas en la época de lluvias, pero el año pasado no llovió, así que muchos han desaparecido. Fuimos a un par de lagos, una hora en 4x4 por la arena… Las dunas se mueven en forma constante – están invadiendo los lagos, enterrando árboles enteros. El día siguiente fuimos en barco a la desembocadura del río. Vimos monos (medio domesticados) en un pequeño asentamiento; y en el borde del río unos ibis colorados, que comen los cangrejos rojos. En Sao Luis tomamos una lancha para cruzar el estuario a la ciudad de Alcantara, una vez habitada por ricos mercantes y barones del algodón, pero ahora muy deteriorada, a pesar de haber sido declarada como patrimonio nacional. Algunas de las hermosas casas del siglo XVIII están preservadas, y dos de las tres iglesias – la del Carmo (que tenía un convento) y la de los esclavos (más pequeña) en la otra punta del pueblo. La plaza principal, con la iglesia Matriz en ruinas, había sido invadida por una fiesta para el carnaval con bancas de altoparlantes. Hicieron un contraste chocante con el pelourinho (donde castigaban a los esclavos) frente a la iglesia. Alojamos en una posada (Bela Vista – recomendado), que pertenece a Danilo y su madre. Ella es muy creativa y ha decorado la posada con telas pegadas en las paredes en vez de papel, y una variedad de materiales reciclados. La comida era deliciosa! Conocimos – entre otros personajes locales – a Luizinho, dueño de un terreno valioso cerca del centro, que un tipo borracho quería comprarle. Magdalena se hizo amiga de una señora que estaba organizando una Fiesta de Carnaval para la tercera edad, y nos invitó!